With the availability of effective thermal methods for total paint
removal, the need for chemical methods--in the context of preparing
historic exterior woodwork for repainting--becomes quite limited.
Solvent-base or caustic strippers may, however, play a supplemental
role in a number of situations, including:
- Removing paint residue from intricate decorative features,
or in cracks or hard to reach areas if a heat gun has not been
completely effective;
-
Removing paint on window muntins because heat devices can easily
break the glass;
- Removing varnish on exterior doors after all layers of paint
have been removed by a heat plate/heat gun if the original varnish
finish is being restored;
- Removing paint from detachable wooden elements such as exterior
shutters, balusters, columns, and doors by dip stripping when other
methods are too laborious.
Recommended Chemical Methods
(Use With Extreme Caution)
Because all chemical paint removers can involve potential health
and safety hazards, no wholehearted recommendations can be made
from that standpoint. Commonly known as "paint removers"
or "strippers," both solvent-base or caustic products
are commercially available that, when poured, brushed, or sprayed
on painted exterior woodwork are capable of softening several
layers of paint at a time so that the resulting "sludge"--which
should be remembered is nothing less than the sequence of historic
paint layers--can be removed with a putty knife. Detachable wood
elements such as exterior shutters can also be "dip-stripped."
Solvent-base Strippers: The formulas tend to vary, but generally
consist of combinations of organic solvents such as methylene
chloride, isopropanol, toluol, xylol, and methanol; thickeners
such as methyl cellulose; and various additives such as paraffin
wax used to prevent the volatile solvents from evaporating before
they have time to soak through multiple layers of paint. Thus,
while some solvent-base strippers are quite thin and therefore
unsuitable for use on vertical surfaces, others, called "semi-paste"
strippers, are formulated for use on vertical surfaces or the
underside of horizontal surfaces.
However, whether liquid or semi-paste, there are two important
points to stress when using any solvent-base stripper: First, the
vapors from the organic chemicals can be highly toxic if inhaled;
skin contact is equally dangerous because the solvents can be
absorbed; second, many solvent-base strippers are flammable. Even
though application out-of-doors may somewhat mitigate health and
safety hazards, a respirator with special filters for organic
solvents is recommended and, of course, solvent-base strippers
should never be used around open flames, lighted cigarettes, or
with steel wool around electrical outlets.
Although appearing to be the simplest for exterior use, a particular
type of solvent-base stripper needs to be mentioned here because
it can actually cause the most problems. Known as "water-rinsable,"
such products have a high proportion of methylene chloride together
with emulsifiers. Although the dissolved paint can be rinsed off
with water with a minimum of scraping, this ultimately creates
more of a problem in cleaning up and properly disposing of the
sludge. In addition, these strippers can leave a gummy residue
on the wood that requires removal with solvents. Finally, water-rinsable
strippers tend to raise the grain of the wood more than regular
strippers.
On balance, then, the regular strippers would seem to work just
as well for exterior purposes and are perhaps even better from
the standpoint of proper lead sludge disposal because they must
be hand 'scraped as opposed to rinsed off (a coffee-can with a
wire stretched across the top is one effective way to collect
the sludge; when the putty knife is run across the wire, the sludge
simply falls into the can. Then, when the can is filled, the wire
is removed, the can capped, and the lead paint sludge disposed
of according to local health regulations).
Caustic strippers: Until the advent of solvent-base strippers,
caustic strippers were used exclusively when a chemical method
was deemed appropriate for total paint removal prior to repainting
or refinishing. Now, it is more difficult to find commercially
prepared caustic solutions in hardware and paint stores for homeowner
use with the exception of lye (caustic soda) because solvent-base
strippers packaged in small quantities tend to dominate the market.
Most commercial dip stripping companies, however, continue to
use variations of the caustic bath process because it is still
the cheapest method available for removing paint. Generally, dip
stripping should be left to professional companies because caustic
solutions can dissolve skin and permanently damage eyes as well
as present serious disposal problems in large quantities.
If exterior shutters or other detachable elements are being sent
out for stripping in a caustic solution, it is wise to see
samples of the company's finished work. While some companies do
a first-rate job, others can leave a residue of paint in carvings
and grooves. Wooden elements may also be soaked too long so that
the wood grain is raised and roughened, requiring extensive hand
sanding later. In addition, assurances should be given by these
companies that caustic paint removers will be neutralized with
a mild acid solution or at least thoroughly rinsed with water
after dipping (a caustic residue makes the wood feel slippery).
If this is not done, the lye residue will cause new paint to fail.
Summary of Chemical Methods
Recommended, with extreme caution: Solvent-base strippers, caustic
strippers.
Applicable areas of buildings: decorative features, window muntins,
doors, exterior shutters, columns, balusters, and railings.
For use on: Class III Conditions.
Health/Safety factors: Take precautions against inhaling toxic
vapors; fire; eye damage; and chemical poisoning from skin contact.
Dispose of lead residue properly