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"Exterior Paint Problems" an Historic Preservation Brief December 1, 2008


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Exterior Paint Problems
on Historic Woodwork

Kay D. Weeks and David W. Look, AIA
Exterior Paint Problems

What's in this article



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Introduction

Purposes of Exterior Paint

Treating Paint Problems

Justification for Paint Removal

Paint Removal Precautions

Repainting Historic Buildings for Cosmetic Reasons

Identification of Exterior Paint Surface Conditions

Recommended Treatments

Selecting the Appropriate/Safest Method to Remove Paint

General Paint Type Recommendations

Conclusion

Selected Reading

Acknowledgements


Return to the Knowledge Base

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Staining

Cause of Condition

Staining of paint coatings usually results from excess moisture reacting with materials within the wood substrate. There are two common types of staining, neither of which requires paint removal. The most prevalent type of stain is due to the oxidation or rusting of iron nails or metal (iron, steel, or copper) anchorage devices. A second type of stain is caused by a chemical reaction between moisture and natural extractives in certain woods (red cedar or redwood) which results in a surface deposit of colored matter. This is most apt to occur in new replacement wood within the first 10-15 years.

Recommended Treatment

In both cases, the source of the stain should first be located and the moisture problem corrected.

When stains are caused by rusting of the heads of nails used to attach shingles or siding to an exterior wall or by rusting or oxidizing iron, steel, or copper anchorage devices adjacent to a painted surface, the metal objects themselves should be hand sanded and coated with a rust-inhibitive primer followed by two finish coats. (Exposed nail heads should ideally be countersunk, spot primed, and the holes filled with a high quality wood filler except where exposure of the nail head was part of the original construction system or the wood is too fragile to withstand the countersinking procedure.)

Discoloration due to color extractives in replacement wood can usually be cleaned with a solution of equal parts denatured alcohol and water. After the affected area has been rinsed and permitted to dry, a "stainblocking primer" especially developed for preventing this type of stain should be applied (two primer coats are recommended for severe cases of bleeding prior to the finish coat). Each primer coat should be allowed to dry at least 48 hours.

CLASS II Exterior Surface Conditions Generally Requiring Limited Paint Removal

Crazing

paint surface exhibiting surface cracking
Crazing--or surface cracking--is an exterior surface condition which can be successfully treated by sanding and painting. Photo: Courtesy, National Decorating Products Assocation.

Cause of Condition

Crazing--fine, jagged interconnected breaks in the top layer of paint--results when paint that is several layers thick becomes excessively hard and brittle with age and is consequently no longer able to expand and contract with the wood in response to changes in temperature and humidity. As the wood swells, the bond between paint layers is broken and hairline cracks appear. Although somewhat more difficult to detect as opposed to other more obvious paint problems, it is well worth the time to scrutinize all surfaces for crazing. If not corrected, exterior moisture will enter the crazed surface, resulting in further swelling of the wood and, eventually, deep cracking and alligatoring, a Class III condition which requires total paint removal.

Recommended Treatment

Crazing can be treated by hand or mechanically sanding the surface, then repainting. Although the hairline cracks may tend to show through the new paint, the surface will be protected against exterior moisture penetration.


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