Home  Product and Services Guide  Stories, articles, and how-to's  Old-House-Friends Forums
"Exterior Paint Problems" an Historic Preservation Brief November 21, 2008


How to clean rain lamp...
Member Sign In|Company Sign In





Exterior Paint Problems
on Historic Woodwork

Kay D. Weeks and David W. Look, AIA
Exterior Paint Problems

What's in this article



more detail


Introduction

Purposes of Exterior Paint

Treating Paint Problems

Justification for Paint Removal

Paint Removal Precautions

Repainting Historic Buildings for Cosmetic Reasons

Identification of Exterior Paint Surface Conditions

Recommended Treatments

Selecting the Appropriate/Safest Method to Remove Paint

General Paint Type Recommendations

Conclusion

Selected Reading

Acknowledgements


Return to the Knowledge Base

 << Previous Page 
Viewing Page 9 of 14
Next Page >> 

Recommended Abrasive Methods (Manual)

Putty Knife/Paint Scraper: Scraping is usually accomplished with either a putty knife or a paint scraper, or both. Putty knives range in width from one to six inches and have a beveled edge. A putty knife is used in a pushing motion going under the paint and working from an area of loose paint toward the edge where the paint is still firmly adhered and, in effect,"beveling" the remaining layers so that as smooth a transition as possible is made between damaged and undamaged areas.

Paint scrapers are commonly available in 1-5/16, 2-1/2, and 3-1/2 inch widths and have replaceable blades. In addition, profiled scrapers can be made specifically for use on moldings. As opposed to the putty knife, the paint scraper is used in a pulling motion and works by raking the damaged areas of paint away.

The obvious goal in using the putty knife or the paint scraper is to selectively remove the affected layer or layers of paint; however, both of these tools, particularly the paint scraper with its hooked edge, must be used with care to properly prepare the surface and to avoid gouging the wood.

Sandpaper/Sanding Block/Sanding sponge: After manually removing the damaged layer or layers by scraping, the uneven surface (due to the almost inevitable removal of varying numbers of paint layers in a given area) will need to be smoothed or "feathered out" prior to repainting. As stated before, hand sanding, as opposed to harsher mechanical sanding, is recommended if the area is relatively limited. A coarse grit, open-coat flint sandpaper--the least expensive kind--is useful for this purpose because, as the sandpaper clogs with paint it must be discarded and this process repeated until all layers adhere uniformly.

Blocks made of wood or hard rubber and covered with sandpaper are useful for handsanding flat surfaces. Sanding sponges--rectangular sponges with an abrasive aggregate on their surfaces--are also available for detail work that requires reaching into grooves because the sponge easily conforms to curves and irregular surfaces. All sanding should be done with the grain.

Summary of Abrasive Methods (Manual)

Recommended: Putty knife, paint scraper, sandpaper, sanding block, sanding sponge.

Applicable areas of building: All areas. For use on: Class I, Class II, and Class III conditions.

Health/Safety factors: Take precautions against lead dust, eye damage; dispose of lead paint residue properly.


 << Previous Page 
Viewing Page 9 of 14
Next Page >> 



  Ads by Google

  Members:  Sign In  |  Register  |  Benefits  |  Feedback  |  Tell-a-Friend  |  Help
  Companies:  Sign In  |  Account Manager  |  Promote Your Company  |  Register  |  Help Advertise

Copyright ©2008 by Renovators, a TB Systems company. All rights reserved. Privacy policy.