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"Painting Historic Interiors" an Historic Preservation Brief December 1, 2008


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Painting Historic Interiors

Sara B. Chase
Painting Historic Interiors

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Introduction

Constituents of Historic Paint

        Pigment

        Binder

        Vehicle

Oil-Based and Water-Based Paints

        Recent Changes to Paint Constituents

Types of Historic Paints

        Oil-based paints

              Enamels

              Glaze

        Water-based paints

              Whitewash

              Distemper

              Calcimine, or kalsomine

              Tempera

              Gouache

        Milk-based paint

              Casein

Pre-1875 Paints

        Production and Appearance

        Geographical Variation

        Brush Marks

        Color

        Glossy/Flat

        Decorative Painting

        Graining and marbleizing

        Trompe L'oeil

Factory-Made Paints after 1875

20th Century Paints

Paint Investigation

Choosing a Treatment

        Preservation

        Rehabilitation

        Restoration

Identifying Deteriorated and Damaged Paint Surfaces

        Abrasion

        Dirt

        Water

        Age/Sunlight

        Incompatible Paints

Surface Preparation

        Scraping and Sanding

        Paint Removal

              Heat/Scraping

              Chemical stripping

              Detergent or vinegar and water

              Air pressure

        Patching and Repair

        Priming

Choosing Modern Paint Types/Finish Coats

        Oil-based/alkyd paints

        Acrylic waterborne paints (latex)

        Calcimine/whitewash

        Glazes

        Epoxies/Urethane

Applying Interior Paints

        Brushes

        Rollers

Types of Modern Paint

        Oilbased/alkyd

        Acrylic waterborne paints (latex)

        Enamels

        Metal finishes

        Special finishes

Summary

Caution

Selected Reading

Organizations

Acknowledgements


Return to the Knowledge Base

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Applying Interior Paints

Because flat wall surfaces generally dominate an interior painting job, some flexibility in applicators is suggested below:

Brushes. Natural bristle brushes now have competition from synthetic brushes made of nylon or polyester which work well for applying either oil/alkyd or latex paints. Being harder than natural bristles, they tend to last longer. Since brushes come in a wide and very specific variety of types suited to different types of work, it is important to have a painter who will use the appropriate brush for the paint selected and for each portion of the job. One strong advantage of brushing paint on is that the paint is forced onto the surface and into all of its imperfections. Thus a good brushedon paint job may last longer if the substrate is sound and the primer and finish coats are compatible and of top quality.

Rollers. There is no harm in using a roller, or even an airless sprayer, to apply a prime coat to a large flat area. Since all contemporary commercial paints dry with a smooth surface anyway, use of a roller or sprayer is acceptable for priming, and even for a first finish coat. However, to get paint well pushed into articulated surfaces and to add some texture to larger flat surfaces, a brush is best.

Types of Modern Paint

Oilbased/alkyd: Nonvolatile oils and resins, with thinners. (Alkyds are synthetic, gelatinous resins compounded from acids and alcohol.) Accept almost any type of coloring/hiding pigments. For use on interior wood and metal.

Acrylic waterborne paints (latex): Suspension of acrylic or polyvinyl resins in water, with other resins, plus hiding and coloring pigments and extenders. Dries by evaporation. Commercially produced acrylic or latex enamels are also available in a complete range of gloss levels which are produced with the addition of various acrylic polymers. Use on interior plaster especially.

Enamels: Modern alkyd paints are adjusted with the addition of synthetic varnishes to produce a complete range of gloss levels.

Metal finishes: Paints marketed for use on metals, can either be alkyd, latex, or epoxy based, or combinations. The primers used for metals are formulated with rustinhibiting ingredients.

Special finishes: finishes such as urethane and epoxy-based paints, marketed for very high gloss surface treatments.

Finally, decorative paint work in an historic interior-- whether simple or highstyle--is well worth preserving or restoring, and when such fancy work is being undertaken, traditional tools should always be used. To simplify by using shortcut methods or rejecting painted decoration is indeed to dismiss or skew history as well as to lose the enjoyment of a true historic finish.


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