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"Removing Graffiti from Historic Masonry" an Historic Preservation Brief November 21, 2008


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Removing Graffiti from Historic Masonry

Martin E. Weaver
Removing Graffiti from Historic Masonry

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Introduction

Identifying the Graffiti and the Masonry

Graffiti Removal Methods and Materials

Testing

Health and Safety Considerations

Environmental Considerations

Barrier Coatings

Preventing and Controlling Graffiti

Summary

Selected Reading

Development of a Treatment Plan

Criteria to Consider Before Selecting a Barrier Coating

Tips for Successful Graffiti Removal

Acknowledgements


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inappropriate painting over graffiti on stone
Painting over graffiti on stone is not a recommended maintenance treatment. Photo: NPS files.

Water and Detergent. Graffiti removal from historic masonry should always begin with the gentlest means possible. In some instances, this means low-pressure water washing. Fresh graffiti-one or two days old-made with water-soluble markers may sometimes be removed with water, possibly aided by a neutral or non-ionic detergent. (Non-ionic detergents which do not ionize in solution, do not deposit a solid, visible residue.) Ammonia can also be effective in removing fresh graffiti. Any detergent should be approached with caution and tested before using because most commercial laundry detergents are not neutral and contain substances which may leave undesirable residues on masonry materials. Usually, the water and detergent should be mixed with an absorbent material and applied in the form of a poultice. Although water washing is often likely to be the gentlest cleaning method for historic masonry, it may not be as effective for removing graffiti because many graffiti materials are not soluble in water.

Organic Solvents and Paint Removers. Most graffiti can be removed without damaging the masonry with proprietary graffiti-removal products and commercial paint strippers containing organic solvents. But, these products should always be tested and used in accordance with manufacturer's instructions included in the product literature. Normally, solvents should be used in a poultice form to prevent them from penetrating into the substrate, and permanently discoloring or staining the masonry. A number of paint-removers are manufactured as thick gels or pastes that cling to the surface, and some commercial paint-removal products include a tough fiber-reinforced paper or cloth backing that retards evaporation and also facilitates neat and clean removal of the used stripper. The advantage of using organic solvents is that they evaporate completely, leaving no residual material in the masonry. However, organic solvents may present a severe health hazard, and workers using them must wear adequate protection. "Off-the-shelf" aerosol graffiti removers generally should not be used because the dissolved paint being removed may run down the wall "staining" a previously clean area; or pigments may also be redistributed by the rinsing and scrubbing recommended by the product manufacturer.

Alkaline Compounds. Alkaline compounds may be used to remove some oils and greases, and waxes from non-alkali sensitive masonry. Like organic solvents, alkaline compounds should generally be used in conjunction with a poultice when removing graffiti. The use of alkaline compounds should always be followed by a weak acid wash and a water rinse in order to neutralize-or remove-all the alkaline residues from the masonry. Strong alkalies (pH13-14), such as sodium hydroxide-based paint removers (caustic soda or lye), generally should not be used as they can cause efflorescence and staining on masonry surfaces, if not properly neutralized. Potassium and other hydroxide paint removers may react with iron compounds in some masonry, particularly Indiana limestone, to form dark brown (rust-colored), or black ferric hydroxide stains, which are very difficult to remove.


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